Seborrheic dermatitis of the scalp: an imbalance to be treated with precision.

Seborrheic dermatitis is a chronic inflammatory condition affecting the scalp and, in some cases, other areas rich in sebaceous glands (eyebrows, sides of the nose, around the ears). At Möss, we believe that a healthy scalp is the foundation of any effective hair care routine. Understanding seborrheic dermatitis means better managing it with adapted, specific, and skin ecosystem-friendly care products.

An interaction between sebum, skin flora, and immune response.

Seborrheic dermatitis results from a multifactorial imbalance:

• Seborrhea, meaning increased sebum production by the sebaceous glands.
• Excessive proliferation of lipophilic yeasts of the Malassezia genus, naturally present on the skin.
• A localized inflammatory reaction: in some individuals, the immune system reacts excessively to the presence of these yeasts or their lipid byproducts.

The result: an altered scalp barrier function, increased flaking (greasy, sometimes adherent scales), irritation (redness, itching), and in some cases, persistent discomfort.

Factors aggravating seborrheic dermatitis

Certain conditions promote flare-ups or intensification of symptoms:

• Oxidative stress and chronic fatigue: these alter the neuro-immune balance of the skin.
• Humid or cold climate: autumn-winter periods are frequently associated with a resurgence.
• Unsuitable cosmetics: especially shampoos containing sulfated surfactants, perfumes, or alcohol.
• Irregular hygiene: accumulated sebum can serve as a nutritive substrate for Malassezia.

A hair care routine designed to stabilize without aggression.

The goal is not to permanently eliminate the yeast – which is part of the normal flora – but to reduce its excessive proliferation while strengthening the skin barrier function.

To avoid:

• Sulfated surfactants: such as sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) or sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), which are too irritating.
• Occlusive silicones: these can prevent natural moisture evaporation and aggravate microbial imbalances.
• Synthetic fragrances or poorly dosed essential oils: sometimes sensitizing for an already fragile scalp.

To prioritize:

• Mild antifungal agents: such as zinc PCA, piroctone olamine, or Neem extract, which inhibit Malassezia without disrupting the overall skin flora.
• Soothing active ingredients: such as aloe vera, chamomile, or colloidal oat extract, known for reducing inflammation.
• Prebiotics: to support a balanced microbiota (e.g., inulin, alpha-glucan oligosaccharide).
• Non-greasy and rinseable textures: which limit residue accumulation and lipid proliferation.

All these types of active ingredients are present in our multi-award-winning product, the scalp rebalancing treatment.

Adapting frequency and gestures.

• Wash the scalp regularly: Depending on hair texture, find the right frequency and specific care to limit sebum accumulation.
• Massage gently without scratching: to avoid mechanically damaging the skin barrier.
• Rinse thoroughly: care product residues can feed opportunistic flora.
• Dry without excessive heat: a scalp exposed to high temperatures can see its sebum production increase.

To improve the effects felt by seborrheic dermatitis, we did not want to create a shampoo but rather a treatment to be left on the scalp before shampooing to allow for better penetration of active ingredients and improved effectiveness, given that shampoo is rinsed off quickly after application. We thus observe better results with:

- Scalp soothed in 5 minutes

- A 40% reduction in dandruff up to 6 days after the first application.